Encarnacin Pinedo, Dan Strehl Encarnacin’s kitchen: Mexican recipes from nineteenth-century California


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Encarnacin’s kitchen: Mexican recipes from nineteenth-century California Encarnacin Pinedo, Dan Strehl КУЛИНАРИЯ. In addition to his lively, clear translation, Dan Strehl offers a remarkable view of Pinedos family history and of the material and literary culture of early California cooking. Whether describing how to prepare cod or ham and eggs (a typical Anglo dish labeled huevos hipcritas), Pinedo was imparting invaluable lessons in culinary history and Latino culture along with her piquant directions. Prize-winning journalist Victor Valle puts Pinedos work into the context of Hispanic womens testimonios of the nineteenth century, explaining how the book is a deliberate act of cultural transmission from a traditionally voiceless group? Pinedos cookbook offers a fascinating look into the kitchens of a long-ago culture that continues to exert its influence today.Of some three hundred of Pinedos recipes included here--a mixture of Basque, Spanish, and Mexican--many are variations on traditional dishes, such as chilaquiles, chiles rellenos, and salsa (for which the cook provides fifteen versions). A landmark of American cuisine first published in 1898 as El cocinero espanol (The Spanish Cook), Encarnacins Kitchen is the first cookbook written by a Hispanic in the United States, as well as the first recording of Californio food--Mexican cuisine prepared by the Spanish-speaking peoples born in California. In 1991 Ruth Reichl, then a Los Angeles Times food writer, observed that much of the style now identified with California cuisine, and with nouvelle cuisine du Mexique, was practiced by Encarnacion Pinedo a century earlier.

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